Shenyang 

Source: CCTV.com

08-02-2006 11:25

To learn about the present, we often look into the past. So, to learn about China, Shenyang is a place you definitely don't want to miss. It was the capital during the early Qing dynasty and the founding base of Manchu culture. Today, we're going to explore Shenyang, the old and the new. I'm Yin and welcome to Travelogue. Let's go.

Shenyang, the capital of Liaoning province, blends the perfect ingredients for an interesting journey. This city boasts an imperial palace, tombs of two former emperors, amazing acrobatics, a magical slope, drool-inducing delicacies, and a shopping district that will catch any girl's eye.

Although a modern metropolis today, its golden years occurred at the dawn of the Qing dynasty in the 17th century, when the Manchu emperor Nurhachu crowned Shenyang as the new capital of Manchu Kingdom. Exploring Shenyang is like having the pages of your history textbook come to life.

Our first stop is Central Temple, the closest structure to the imperial palace.

43, 44, 45. It only took 45 steps to complete my walk around this temple. Although this temple is small, it doesn't mean it's not important. When the imperial palace was built, it was built around this temple, so as not to interfere with the temple. That's why you see that bend there. So let's take a look at the imperial palace.

Welcome to the emperor's home in Shenyang. There are two big differences between the imperial palace in Beijing and the one in Shenyang. Let's see if we can find them.

The Imperial palace was the first palace of the founders of the Qing Dynasty in the 17th century—Nurhachi and his son Huang Taiji. It emerged as Shenyang's showcase structure.

Upon walking through the gate, the main architecture on the central axis is the Chong Zheng Dian where the emperor attended to political affairs. Inside is an emperor's throne decorated with intricate dragons. Since the first legendary rulers, the Emperors of China have taken the dragon as the central image that symbolize the emperor's authority.

The palace is divided into three main sections: the eastern, middle, and western.

It boasts more than 300 impressively decorated rooms. The palace resembles Beijing's Forbidden City in size and layout, although it is only 1/12.

I'm standing on Phoenix Tower, which used to be the tallest structure in Shenyang. Today, we can see the tops of all those roofs. And this is where we find one big difference between the imperial palace in Beijing and the one here. The borders of the roofs are green, while the ones in Beijing are gold. This is because the Manchu are from the grasslands and forests and have a deep respect for nature and greenery.

This is a typical Manchu courtyard that was later found in Beijing as well. On the side are residences. On this residence, the door is not in the center, but on the side. This is another Manchu characteristic.

The Dazheng Hall or Hall of Great Affairs is the leading attraction of the palace, located in eastern section. It is an octagonal, wooden structure in vivid red and lacquered gold, with two pillars with twisting golden dragons.

This eight-sided structure has elements from many nationalities. For instance, there are no real walls, but these doors. This is very Manchu. At the same time, this structure is made completely of wood and there are dragons on these poles. That is very Han.

The Hall has an elaborate throne and was where ceremonies and meetings were conducted. Incorporates the architectural style of the Manchus as well as that of the Han and the Mongols.

In front of the hall are ten pavilions for the Manchurian tribal lords to gather for discussion of state affairs and other important ceremonies. They form neat rows along the left and right sides of the plaza before Dazheng Hall. This is one of the few places where the emperor and tribesmen could work together.

Wensu Pavilion stands out because the poles are green and the tiles on the roofs are black. That's because it's a library with a complete collection of Four Branches of books.

The Four Branches of books or Si Ku Quan Shu is a large scale collection compiled in the Qianlong reign, who was the 6th Qing emperor. In the Si ku quan shu are important works pertaining to the five thousand years of Chinese civilization, including history, law, politics, economics, society, technology, and philosophy.

I found the second big difference between the imperial palace in Beijing and the one in Shenyang. On that sign, the left side is for Manchu characters and the right for Han. Usually, the left is taken to be more important, and so it's the reverse in Beijing.

A look beyond the ancient city, and you will discover a new world of skyscrapers and modern buildings. However, that's not to say that there are ancient buildings scattered amongst them.

Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral is the most well known church in Shenyang. I luckily came in time for a wedding. Walking through this church, you will be amazed by the glass pane windows and gothic style. Antiquity does not mean that it is no longer used. For instance, many weddings are still held. At the end of the ceremony, the lights go out and we witness the end of the day.

The beginning of a new day and I coincidentally found the essence of local life. You may think this is a music band, but these residents gather here just for pure interest. Their free performance brings together musical instruments, local opera, and folk dances. All this music makes me excited…ah, why not. I'll join in too.

But I got a few tricks under my sleeve as well as I got to show off a few of my moves as well. Seeing their bright, smiling faces reminds me of why I love traveling… it's seeing new people and gaining insight into some corner of their lives.

More exercise is planned for my day, as went for a ride on magic slope. Why, do you wonder is it called Magic? Let's see if you can figure that out yourself.

Welcome to Magic Slope. When you go down the slope, you have to pedal real hard, but up the slope is a breeze. You might not be able to experience this, but I'll show you a little trick that you'll find amazing.

Catch! But that's not the trick. See what happens when I roll this ball down the slope. Abra Cadabra!

Gravity gone wrong? Optical illusion? The truth is that it can't be explained. Everyone has their own interpretation. Maybe you can figure it out.

Trendy people, boutique shops, and delicious snacks makes the pedestrians only Central Street the place to go for excitement and stimulation.

Are you ready to party? This is the most happening place in town. Central Street has been the center of commercial activity since the 17th century. Even today, there are plenty of people here to buy foods, clothes, everything. Let's shop!

If rather you would like to opt for a quiet place, located near Central Street is Chang An Temple, the oldest existing temple in Shenyang. The saying is, 'First there was Chang an Temple, then the city of Shenyang.'

Entrance into this temple is free, and there is a stunning contrast between the serenity of the temple, and the hustle and bustle of modern life. An excellent place to find stillness and peace of mind, in the backdrop of Shenyang city. Only the sound of rising smoke can be heard in the distance.

And of course… FOOD! I'm not just talking about your simple meal, because they like things fit for an emperor. The complete Manchu-Han Banquet originated in Shenyang and is the largest Chinese banquet combining the essential delicacies from the Manchu and Han ethnic groups

Here it's not just about taste, but also presentation.

And now it's finally served. I sat down with Professor Wang.

He told me that there are many different answers to how many dishes are in the banquet, anywhere from 54 to 198. I wonder how they serve all those dishes in one meal? Well, Prof. Wang informed me that it is actually served over the course of several days, depending on the emperor's orders. The Manchu dishes include the dried fruits and hot pot. The dishes include sweets and fruits, appetizers, main course, and desserts.

Some parts of the banquet include camel's foot, fish, and I don't know what that is.

Wang: Now, I want to show you the three-roll pancake.

Yin: Three-roll pancake? Never heard of it.

Wang: Now it's your turn.

Yin: No problem.

So I'm ready to make it. Do I look professional? So first, you add some oil to this board, and then take some dough. Then, you roll it three times, one… two… and three. Finally, you put it on the hot surface and you know it's ready when the color turns yellow and you can smell a sweet doughy taste. Then, you take it off and it's ready. You can see how thin it is.

Dinner is over done, but don't forget acrobatics that will amaze any audience member. The acrobatics troupe is first rate, like a hot export commodity. Flips, turns, and spinning random things left and right. That's what I call a good show. But don't forget magic as well, which I got to take a small role in.

I originally thought they would tie me, but luckily, I got to do the tying. I examined the rope carefully and put on the special coat. Extra tight! Unbelievable!

I don't know how they did that. I just had my hands behind my back and my head in the hole. Then, my shirt was gone and she was wearing it. Oh, I forgot my bag.

Zhaoling Tomb is popularly named 'Beiling,' meaning Northern Tomb because of its location in the northern suburb of the ancient city. The tomb began to be built in 1643 and was completed in 1651, and now houses the burial site of Huang Taiji, the second emperor in the early Qing dynasty.

It is said that Huangtaiji selected this burial ground on one of his hunting adventures. In his later years, he had been searching for a resting place for himself and his empress. He had consulted many astrologists and fortune tellers, but finally one day, when heading out to the northern suburbs to hunt, a rabbit caught his eye. He followed it and was led to an open field, where he found black crows sitting on the land. Black crows are a sacred animal in Manchu culture and thus it was decided that his burial ground would be in the northern part of the city… today's Beiling.

Along the sides of this path are many creatures that guard the emperor's tomb, including lions, camels, and elephants. However, two of the most important structures are horses. Xiao Bai and Da Bai. Little White and Big White. Let's take a look.

An emperor is often remembered for his battles, and Huang Taiji was no exception. His favorite horses he took into battle were called Big White and Little White. At his death, he ordered that they be placed at the site of his burial.

This tourist attraction is often called the Square city, because emperor Huang Taiji hoped his burial ground would be designed like his home in the imperial palace, square on four sides.

This tomb is the grandest of the three tombs in Shenyang covering an area of 4,500,000 square meters.

Long En Men is the front gate of the Square Bastion.

Hey Yin, what's this?

Yin: Oh, that's a lock. You can put this pole through the two holes and lock the gate.

So why is it locked from the outside?

Yin:Well, if you think about it. This is a mausoleum so there are no living people inside. Thus, it needs to be locked on the outside.

Five stone sacrificial vessels in front of the Soul Tower

As we walk deeper into the mausoleum, we can feel the real essence of the tomb… quiet and solitude.

Retaining Wall is the name of this structure, a semicircular bastion.

Next to Huang temple, there is a square with stone structures of the 12 emperors. Each one is sculpted meticulously.

So now that we've seen the emperor's tomb, let's take a look at the emperors. Well, the closest we can get is the statues. And there seems to be a person taking pictures. Let's go take a look.

Here, I met my friend Alain, a Frenchman who unlike most foreigners who chose to reside in Beijing or Shanghai, has been in Shenyang for many years.

Why did I come to Shenyang? Very simple. I am a Frenchman, I have been teaching French in Shenyang four years. Shenyang is an ancient, mysterious, passionate city. Here, you will discover Manchu myths and 12 Qing emperors. There is the Imperial Palace, North and East Tombs, and temples. Also, if you come to Shenyang, you will find welcoming locals, even in restaurants. If you come to China, don't forget Shenyang. See you!

Shenyang is a city that beautifully combines the old and the new. It is also a dynamically changing city, from the past to the present. Who knows what it will be like in the future. This is Yin saying, enjoy every moment, every second, every hour, every year. Until next time!

 

Editor:Chen