来源 | http://www.burdastyle.com/blog/sewing-lesson-knotted-blouse-125-082016
制作图解
Step 1- Cut fabric pieces, sizes 34 – 40:
Spread out the fabric, right side facing up. Pin pattern pieces 1, 2, and 3 to the fabric – the printed sides of the pattern pieces must be facing up. With tailor’s chalk, mark seam allowances, 1.5 cm (5/8') wide, on the fabric, along all edges of the pattern pieces. Cut out the fabric pieces along the marked -lines.
Step 2- …?Then draw the measured (draft yourself) pieces:
With tailor’s chalk, draw the strips for the hem band (a) and the back neck edge (b) directly on the wrong side of the fabric. The measurements for the strips, including 1.5 cm (5/8') wide seam allowances, can be found within the instructions. Cut out the fabric strips.
Step 3- Cut fabric pieces, sizes 42, 44:
Spread out the fabric, right side facing up. Pin pattern pieces 1 and 2 to the fabric – the printed sides of the pattern pieces must be facing up. With tailor’s chalk, mark seam allowances, 1.5 cm (5/8') wide, on the fabric, along all edges of the pattern pieces. Also draw the measured pieces (see Step 2). Cut out all fabric pieces.
Step 4- …?And cut out the back piece:
Fold the remaining fabric in half, right side facing in, matching the selvages. Pin -pattern piece 3 to the fabric, on the fold. With tailor’s chalk, mark seam allowances, 1.5 cm (5/8') wide, on the fabric, along all edges of the pattern piece (except the fold edge). Cut out the back fabric piece.
Steps 3 & 4 only apply if you are making sizes 42 or 44
Step 5- Transfer pattern markings to the fabric:
Use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a -tracing wheel to transfer pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all notch marks to all fabric pieces.
Step 6- Back neck edge:
On the back neck edge, trim seam -allowance to 0.7 cm (?') wide. Press the fabric strip (b) in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in. Pin the folded strip to the back neck edge, matching the raw edges. Stitch the strip in place, stitching 0.7 cm (?') from the raw edge. Trim the seam -allowances and clip the allowances on the curves. Turn the strip to the inside, baste, and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm (3/16') from the back neck edge.
Step 7- Front section seam:
On each front piece, trim the allow-ances on neck edge, cut-on tie band, and angled section seam edge to 1 cm (3/8') wide. On section seam edge of each front piece, finish edge of allowance, from notch 1 to side edge. Lay upper front piece on front piece, right sides facing. Pin the section seam from the notch to side edge, matching seam -numbers (1). Stitch the seam, tying off -beginning and end of the seam with backstitching. Press the seam open.
Step 8- Front neck edge, tie bands:
On end of each cut-on tie band, trim allowance across point, 5 mm (3/16') from marked seam line, as illustrated. Press -allowance across point to wrong side. Press allowances on neck and tie band edges to wrong side. Turn edges of these allowances to wrong side and baste in place. Stitch -allowances in place.
Step 9- Shoulder seams:
Lay front section of back piece, right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams, matching notches (2). Stitch shoulder seams. At each seam, trim seam allowances, finish edges of allowances together, and press allowances toward back. Stitch allowances of back neck edge in place, close to shoulder seams, approx. 2 cm (?') long.
Step 10- Side seams:
Lay front unit on back piece, right sides facing. Pin each side seam from notch (seam number 3) to lower edge. Stitch side seams, tying off ends of seams with backstitching. At each seam, finish edges of seam allowances and press seam open.
Step 11- Armhole edges:
At each armhole edge, turn allowance to wrong side, turn raw edge under, and pin in place. Stitch allowance in place as illustrated, tying off ends of stitching by backstitching.
Step 12- Hem band:
Fold hem band strip in half, right side facing in, matching narrow ends. Stitch ends together, to form a ring. Press seam open. Press hem band in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in. Insert straight pins -exactly opposite the seam (“2nd side seam”) and at center front and centre back of hem band. Also mark centre front and centre back on lower edge of top with pins. Pin hem band to lower edge of top, right sides facing, -matching side seams and centres. Stitch hem band to top, stretching the hem band to match. Trim the seam allowances and finish the edges of the seam allowances together.
Knotted Blouse; Sailor Pants; Cropped Pea Coat
Pair this blouse with a matching coat and pants set for a put together look! We love this nautical look and how the structure of the pants and jacket contrast the flowy blouse. Have fun accessorizing with bold watches, bracelets and earrings. Avoid necklaces since they could get lost in the knotted front.
You can also customize this blouse however you want! Lengthen the hem and omit the hem band to create a dress, or lengthen the sleeves for a long sleeve blouse. You can also add a little something in the back, by creating a yoke like with some additional gathers. Watch below:
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