What is Chinese hotpot and where does it come from? The questions that boiled over into a national controversy
什么是中国火锅，它从何而来？这些问题引发了一场全国性争论
中国不同地区都宣称是火锅的家乡，由此我们回顾了这道菜的历史，了解了一下各种不同的火锅。
The decision by a town in southeastern China to declare itself the home of hotpot prompted a backlash from other parts of the country, which all have their own views on the correct way to make the dish.
It is little surprise that they reacted in the way they did. It is, after all, one of the most popular dishes in the nation of 1.4 billion people and comes in a huge variety of recipes ranging from the fiery to the fragrant.
中国东南部的一个小镇宣称自己是火锅的发源地，这一决定引起了中国其他地区的强烈反对，他们都对如何正确制作这道菜有自己的看法。他们激烈的反应让人毫不奇怪。毕竟它是这个国家14亿人口最受欢迎的菜肴之一，而且从火辣到芳香有各种各样的食谱特色。
Many of these regional variations have now spread across the world and can be found in restaurants from Nairobi to Buenos Aires.
It is also big business. Hotpots account for 22 per cent of the dishes sold at restaurants across the country, according to a 2017 report from food industry giant Dianping-Meituan.
这些地区的许多特色火锅现在已经遍布世界各地，从内罗毕到布宜诺斯艾利斯各地餐馆里都能找到这道菜。这也是一项大生意。根据食品行业巨头安平美团2017年的一份报告，2017年全国各地的餐馆里火锅占了22%的市场份额。
He believes that Sichuan peppercorns and chilis “can disperse both the humidity and cold inside our bodies, which helps keep the balance between yin and yang”.
成都厨师何桥说，这个城市夏天很热冬天很冷。他认为花椒和辣椒“可以分散我们体内的湿度和寒冷，这有助于保持阴阳平衡。
Unlike in Beijing, there is a much wider choice of ingredients for diners to chose from – basically, anything goes from congealed blood to cheese balls or live shrimp.
Hotpot culture is strong in this part of the world. Chongqing residents often claim that one in five restaurants there is a hotpot place.
与北京不同，四川食客们食材的选择范围更广——基本上，从凝结的血液到奶酪球或活虾都在他们的菜单上。在这个地区有兴旺的火锅文化。重庆的居民经常说五分之一的餐馆里都有火锅。
Anhui ‘simple but delicious’
安徽火锅“简单但美味”
Guangde in the southeastern province of Anhui kicked off the latest controversy by unilaterally declaring itself the hotpot hometown,
However, this variety is less well known compared with Beijing and Sichuan’s versions and features a heavily flavoured broth with local, seasonable vegetables, which is often cooked in the home.
“The simplest pot is pork stewed with radish. It’s simple, but incredibly delicious, especially in winter,” said Mian Lugui, a university student from Guangde.
中国东南部安徽省广德市单方面宣布自己是火锅的故乡，这引发了最近的争议。然而，与北京和四川火锅相比，这种火锅的知名度并不高。而这里火锅的特色是一种味道浓郁的肉汤，里面有当地的时令蔬菜，通常是一道家常菜。
“最简单的火锅是用萝卜炖的猪肉。”这很简单但非常美味，冬天尤其如此。”来自广德大学的大学生Mian Lugui说。
Yunnan favours the sour and Guangdong likes seafood
云南喜欢酸菜，广东喜欢海鲜
The Beijing and Sichuan varieties may dominate China’s big cities, but an array of different recipes can be found throughout the country, reflecting the produce and culture of their home regions.
Yunnan in the southwest often uses ham, Guizhou in the south is known for flavours such as its sour hotpot and its use of ingredients such as cow intestine.
北京和四川的火锅品种可能在中国大城市中占据主导地位，但在全国各地都能找到各种不同的风味，这也反映出它们家乡的生产文化。西南地区的云南经常使用火腿，而南方的贵州则以其酸辣火锅和牛肠等食材闻名。
In Jiansgu on the east coast hotpots have a lighter flavour and are cooked with chrysanthemum.
The southern province of Guangdong, home to Cantonese cuisine, is known for its fragrant soup base and its emphasis on seafood.
“Because the climate in Guangdong is relatively hot, people do not eat chilli. So the local hotpot is not spicy and they use spring onion, ginger, peanut oil and soy sauce instead,” said Zhou Chao of Beijing Cooking School.
而东海岸江苏省的火锅味道更清淡，而且是用菊花做的。广东是广东菜的发源地，以其芳香的汤底和对海鲜的强调而闻名。“因为广东的气候比较热，人们不吃辣椒。”所以当地的火锅不辣，他们用的是葱、姜、花生油和酱油，”北京烹饪学校的周超说。
But others believe that the dish as we know it today probably has its roots in the 14th century.
Some accounts trace the roots of Beijing hotpot to the days of the Mongol empire around 800 years ago.
“一开始，火锅在中国寒冷的北方很受欢迎，人们用它来做各种各样的肉。”烹饪技术的进一步发展导致了更多火锅品种的诞生。但其他人认为，我们今天所知的火锅可能起源于14世纪。一些人则将北京火锅的根源追溯至大约800年前的蒙古帝国时代。
A legend from that time tells of a emperor impatiently waiting for his lamb leg to cook as he prepared for battle. His ingenious chef decided to speed up the process by chopping up the meat and boiling it, thereby giving rise to a new dish.
“In the Ming and Qing dynasties [from the late 14th century to early 20th century], some dignitaries liked hotpot very much, and they began to put different seasonings and ingredients into hotpots for the different flavours,” said Zhou from the Beijing Cooking School. “Now, we have a lot of different ways to cook the different dishes.”
那时传说一个皇帝在准备战斗时不耐烦地等着厨师用羊腿做饭。他的天才厨师决定加快这一过程，所以把肉切碎并煮沸从而产生一道新菜。来自北京烹饪学校的周说：“14世纪末到20世纪初的明清时期，一些政要非常喜欢火锅，他们开始把不同调味料和食材放入火锅中以获得不同的口味。”“现在我们则有很多不同的方法来烹饪不同的菜肴。”
So many hotpots but they all give diarrhea
这么多的火锅吃了都会腹泻。
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