Wednesday
Cicada, a kind of insect, is known by everyone, is living on trees and considered as a kind of Pests and the whole summer will be filled with Cicada’s loud shrill droning noise. But few person know that it also can be a famous dish in our hometown Lishui, a very beautiful city in Zhejiang province. A few days ago, I was surprised to see that it was named as a dark home cooking in People's Daily, which is said, “People in Lishui will eat out almost millions of cidadas from June to September. Cicadas are of certain hazards to the trees and moderate food supplement is beneficial for the growth of vegetation, but if being captured too much cicadas will affect the ecological chain. Currently, it will not affect the local populations…. ” I believe that after reading this article most of Lishui people will understand and smile. Regardless of the so profound topic of ecological chain, I just want to say, for Lishui people, a summer without cicadas is unthinkable.
提起家乡最著名的黑暗料理——知了，可谓远近皆知。知了，生物学名称为蝉，丽水人叫知鸟，缙云人叫妈妈衣，壶镇人则称之为田螺衣。 前几天，突然看到家乡的黑暗料理居然被人民日报点名了。文章中说到：丽水人从六月到九月初80天吃掉上亿只知了，知了对树木有一定危害，适量辅食对植被生长有利，但是捕捉过量会对生态链造成影响，从目前看，还不会对当地种群造成影响云云。相信丽水老乡们看完这篇文章，大多都会心领神会地莞尔一笑，且不论生态链这么高深的话题，我只是想说，对于丽水人来说，没有知了的夏天是不可想象的。
Almost all 70’s and 80’s Lishui people are of a necessary skill, that is catch cicadas and get it cooked later. It can really be regarded as our local characteristics. I still remember clearly when catching cicadas with friends when I was a young girl. At that time, we had no air conditioning, no computer, and no cell phone. The long summer vacation was intolerably hot, but we had a refreshing coup to enjoy the hot summer, the most interesting of which was to catch the cicadas. Catching cicadas was an extremely interesting thing to me, but nowadays most children are caught in the whirlpool of mobiles, computers, and there is little opportunity to be keenly aware of such kind of rustic charm, which is somewhat regrettable.
自己去抓知了，然后鼓捣着弄熟吃了，几乎是丽水70后80后人人必备的技能，堪称地方特色。年少时，呼朋引伴去抓知了的情景还是记忆犹新。那时候，我们没有空调，没有电脑，没有手机，漫长的暑假虽然酷暑难耐，我们却自有一套打发时光的消暑妙招，其中的重头戏就是抓知了。在我看来，抓知了是一件极其有趣的事情，可惜如今的孩子大多深陷在手机电脑漩涡之中，很少有机会可以切身体会那种野趣了，这未免有些遗憾。
Younger children would find a long thin bamboo pole, and tie an open bag on top of it. Some fathers would help his child to make more advanced equipment by wiring around the mouth of the bag and securing it to a top bamboo. When it was getting dark, we searched for lurking cicadas on the trees by using a flashlight, and gently sticked those to the bamboo pole, then cicadas fell into the bag. It was impossible to escape no matter how they are flapping its wings. Cicadas are really a clumsy creature, as although it has a pair of long wings, but it cannot fly high enough. Catching cicadas was as easy as winking; even a child could have a good harvest at one night.
小一点的孩子，会找一根细细长长的竹竿，顶端系上一个开口的布袋，有心的爸爸会帮忙用铁丝绕在布袋口，固定在竹竿顶上，这种装备已经算是比较高级的了。待到天色黑了，打上手电筒，在树下往上照，看到潜伏在树干的知了，用竹竿轻轻一粘，那知了就会掉进袋子，任它怎么扑楞着翅膀，也是在劫难逃了。说起来知了实在是一种比较笨拙的生物，虽然长了一对翅膀，却飞不高也飞不快，假如是夜晚，更加有如探囊取物，一个小孩子一夜都可以抓到不少呢。
We were already teenagers, so we had richer experience than other younger children. The girls went to the tailors to get some useless bits and pieces of clothes, which were mostly cotton and the great materials for making fire. Sometime we went to furniture store for some wood shavings, which was easier ignition material. The boys were responsible for the diesel, but it was rare at that time and not easy to find. My best friend ever got some diesel secretly from his father’s tractor and took the risk of being beaten. If we couldn’t find diesel, it was also a wonderful way to light up a little pile of fire under the tree. Had all the stuffs and persons got ready and we started immediately! A place called Ancient City was a good treasure house where children could find a lot of cicadas. What's more, you could see perfect scenery with the forest besides a clean rippling stream. Unfortunately, we often turned a blind eye for the beauty because only the cicadas could catch our eyes. In the summer, when we went closer there, "Zhi la~ Zhi la " called the cicadas endlessly, was really the sound of nature to us. Everyone was lighted up immediately in high spirits.
我们那时已经是半大不小的孩子，鬼主意更多，经验也更加丰富了。大家分头行动，女孩们负责去裁缝店，向老板娘讨些没用的零碎布头，那年代的衣服都是土布棉料居多，碎布头可是生火的好材料。或者有哪家打家具的，去讨些木屑刨花，更容易点火。男孩们则负责去找柴油，那时候柴油可是稀罕玩意儿，发小可是冒着挨打的危险偷偷地从父辈的拖拉机里弄出来的。实在找不到柴油的，找个打火机，抓知了的林子里多的是木柴，就地捡一点堆在树下也是绝妙的办法。东西准备好了，人马也凑齐了，待到天黑了马上出发。那时孩子们眼中抓知了的风水宝地是一个叫古城的地方。那里依山傍水风景绝佳，潺潺的小溪边有一片森林。可惜在那时候我们眼里心里，只有知了，对美景往往视而不见。夏天的时候，一靠近那边，＂知啦知啦＂的蝉叫就不绝于耳。这种声音，对于我们来说无异于是天籁之音，一旦真切听到，所有人就像打了鸡血一样马上浑身来劲了。
Firstly the most experienced and most prestigious children would select one tree and all piled under the tree cottons or wood chips or simply picked up sticks and dry leaves Then all doused with diesel fuel and lighted up. The bright flames slowly grew larger which were fluttering and dancing in the night sky. The boys went and shook the trees, while the girls were waiting with holding their breath around the fire. Not for a while, "PaPa" voices kept emerging. And the cicadas constantly fell down from the trees and hit the ground with their hard shell. In retrospect, that sounds liked a rainstorm which was on its way with heavy rain drops severely hitting heavily on the concrete floor. The sound became more and more intensive and cicadas were falling down like raining and some even hit our heads or bodies.
首先由最有威信最有经验的孩子选定一棵树，大家在树下堆好棉布头或木屑，或者干脆就是刚刚从林子里捡的枯枝败叶，浇上柴油，点燃打火机，看着鲜艳的火舌慢慢地从小变大，在夜空中猎猎狂舞，男孩们去使劲摇树，女孩们则围着火堆屏息静气地等着，不消一会儿，就听到＂叭叭＂的声音不停地响起来，那是知了不断的从树上掉下来，坚硬的外壳砸在地上的声音，现在回想起来，那种声音像极了暴雨刚刚来临时，豆大的雨点狠狠地砸在坚硬的水泥地面的声音。声音由刚开始的稀稀疏疏变得越来越密集，知了们犹如雨点一样纷纷砸下来，甚至会砸在我们的头上身上。
We cheered, surrounded and kept bent down to pick up the cicadas on the ground. At that time the cicadas were not able to revolt and we just picked them up and threw them into bags. We picked up more than half a bag of cicadas in just a few while. The most impressive thing was, when I stood under a tree wearing a loose T-shirt, a caterpillar just took the advantage of the flame and fell off into my neck incredibly, unceremoniously ran down in my back for a trip, and at last fell on my heel. At the sight of the big worm at my feet which was keeping swirling peristalsis, for an instant, my whole body and fine hair stood on end, and I could not stop screaming astoundingly. The whole back soon became hot and itching that no scratch could not stop it. My back skin soon became red and swelling. My friends found a bottle of essential balm to apply the whole bottle all smeared on my back, but it still didn’t work. Although I was already afraid of water, I ran to a nearby creek and knelt down into the water, and let the cooling water stroking my skin; the extremely itchy was gradually calmed down. Since then it always gives me the willies even only a mere mention of warms. Later soon, we were obtaining more experiences on how to catch cicadas. We used the flashlight shining on trunk, or let several motorcycles headlights irradiating on trees while we were pushing the trunk, and some were looking for a big hammer to beat the trunk. The cicadas would fall down one after another, and soon you could pick up a bag of them.
我们欢呼起来，一拥而上，不停地弯下腰去捡地上的知了。此时的知了，是完全没有反抗能力的，只消伸出手去捡起来，扔进蛇皮袋里就可以了，一会儿的功夫，就捡了大半袋。印象最深刻的一次，是我在树下站着，一条毛毛虫也趁着火光掉下来了，那天我刚好穿了一条宽松的丅恤，那虫子居然那么巧的就掉进了我的后颈，毫不客气地在我的后背进行了一次旅行，最后掉在我的脚跟上。一看到那条肥硕的虫子在我的脚边不停地翻滚着蠕动着，一瞬间，我全身的寒毛都竖起来了，尖叫声简直就是惊天动地，整个背上也很快开始火辣辣起来，奇痒见骨，一双手完全不够用，越挠越痒。背上的皮肤很快变的红肿一片，疙疙瘩瘩。小伙伴们赶紧找来风油精，七手八脚地把整瓶都涂抹在我的背上也无济于事，实在无计可施，一向恐水的我也顾不了这么多了，狂奔向附近的小溪，整个人蹲下来泡在水里，让凉爽的水流抚过我的皮肤，那份奇痒才慢慢消停下来。从那之后谈虫色变，每次一看到毛毛虫，就会吓得寒毛倒竖。后来摸索出来的经验更多了。可以用强光手电筒照射着树干，或者几辆摩托车大灯一齐打开照射，一边推搡树干，也有的找一把大锤子敲打树干，那知了也会纷纷落下来，不一会儿就可以捡上一大袋。
Generally there were two choices to deal with the captured booty. Children who were from poor and difficult families mounted the cicadas on a black string bag and sold them out on the market. Cicadas had been in hot demands in summer, especially someone who was responsible for the acquisition. Capable children could earn all the fees for the next semester like that. Another way was that, we cooked cicadas in all kinds of processing, and then ate them all.
捕获的战利品，一般有两条出路。家境困难的，孩子一般懂事的也早，每次把知了装在一种黑色网兜里，拿到菜场上出售，这个在夏天一直都是抢手货，专门有人负责收购。能干的孩子，一个夏天可以把下个学期的费用都给挣齐了。另一条出路，就是各种炮制，然后祭了大家的五脏庙了。
We caught cicadas for all reward people’s stomach finally. The prevalence of eating cicadas for Lishui people started from 1980s. People cut sharp barbed foot, put off the head, tail and wings, leaving only the middle of the most fertile part, and then served on dishes. It looked quite ugly, which would not make people appetizing. Until they were fried, or stewed, or a series of cooking, you weighed in hand, stripped off the shell, threw it into the mouth and chewed, fleshy extraordinary fragrance slowly overflew in the tip of the tongue from the first taste, and you could not stop any more. It is unforgettable delicious. It is quite amazing that there were some experienced diners who were so skillful that they could finish peeling and enjoy the meat, and finally just spit out its shell after they pinched the cicada and throw it into their mouth. In summer night, when the wind blowed gently across the Ming lake, it is really pleasant life just as a fairy to have some friends chatting with a plate of cicadas, a plate of fried snails, and a few bottles of cold beers!
我们抓的知了，最后下场都是犒劳了自己的肠胃。丽水人盛行吃知了，是从上世纪八十年代中末期开始的。剪去尖利带刺的脚，摘去翅膀和头尾，只留下中间最肥美的一段，这时候的知了装在盘子里，黑乎乎的，其貌相当不扬，看了根本不会令人食指大动。待到经过或油炸，或红烧，或椒盐等一系列烹调之后，你再掂起一粒，剥去外壳，扔进嘴里细细咀嚼，紧致筋斗的肉质异香扑鼻，满口酥脆在舌尖慢慢漾开，令你口齿生津，从此一头栽了进去而一发不可收拾，只怕再也难以忘怀了。也有更老到的食客，可以撮起一只直接扔进嘴里，巧舌如簧，在嘴里就可以完成剥皮去壳食肉的诸多过程，最后吐出的只是外壳，那技巧，简直令人惊叹。夏日的夜晚，南明湖边，夜风习习，一盘知了，一盘炒螺蛳，几瓶冰镇啤酒，三五好友，神侃胡聊，那份惬意真的是给个神仙当当也不换呢！
Lishui is a famous big stove, with rich vegetation and cicadas. When summer is coming, the little thing on the trees start chattering without scruple. Lishui people's taste buds will be awakened and it will be the right season of cicadas again. Now people can enjoy cicadas all through the year by cold and frozen storage, but in my opinion, the cicadas we caught and cooked by all efforts in youth was the most wonderful delicacy in the world.
丽水是个著名的大火炉，植被丰富，知了也特别多。每年立夏之后，树枝上的小东西们开始肆无忌惮地聒噪起来，丽水人的味蕾就被唤醒了，原来又到了吃知了的季节。现在通过冰冻冷藏，一年四季都可以吃到，但是在我看来，少年时代齐心协力地现抓现烧，围炉共品，那才是人间绝妙美味。
As a native Lishui people, how can it be counted on as a complete summer without cicadas?
对于一个土生土长的丽水人来说，没有知了的夏天，怎么可以算的上是一个完整的夏天呢？
本月共读《Zero to One》英文版
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☞ 作者：弈心
☞ 翻译：叶月菜菜，南林英专，长期从事外贸工作，80后辣妈一枚，巨蟹座，典型温柔居家女，闷骚不外露，户外运动爱好者，热爱徒步，登山，骑单车……
☞ 编校：My name is Yao Sheng li, English name is Eric, come from Shijiazhuang. I gratuated from Hebei Normal University and majored in English. In my spare time, I have broad interests. Such as reading, surfing the internet, singing, and chatting with my friends online. I hope to make more friends and communicate English study skills in this platform.
—共读书籍简介—
《Zero to One》涉及哲学、历史、经济等多元领域，解读世界运行的脉络，分享商业与未来发展的落实。该书将帮助我们思考从0到1的秘密，在意想不到之处发现价值与机会。
值得关注的是，这本《Zero to One》绝非学术讨论或者思想大师们的论战，自问世起，它的影响就迅速超越了投资圈，在美国亚马逊图书畅销总榜上跻身前列。
如何花3杯咖啡的价格一年轻松读完12本英文原著
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