Once, a very long time ago, I decided to take the sleeves off a beloved dress to make it more summer-appropriate. I was new to garment sewing and had never heard of bias tape or binding. In my mind, a double rolled hem around that armhole seemed practical. I set to work on those armholes with my trusty steam iron by my side.
曾经，很旧以前，我决定把一件喜欢的衣服袖子，让它更适合夏天。我是一个缝纫新手，并且从来没有听过包边条或者滚边条。在我的脑海里，双边包条看起来更实用。 我准备用我旁边值得信赖的蒸汽烫斗去熨烫这个袖子。
Disaster ensued. Not only is a double rolled hem next to impossible to press into a very curved armhole, the final product was a wonky, wavy armhole that didn’t lay flat against my skin. My beloved dress became unwearable.
不幸的是， 不仅双边包条几乎不可能压入一个非常弯曲的袖笼，最后的结果就是一个非常容易晃动，波浪形的袖隆（针织料容易拉伸），导致不能贴服我的皮肤。我心爱的衣服不能穿了。
Don’t let this happen to you, use bias tape.
不要让这样的情况发生，用斜纹带。
What is bias tape exactly? Bias tape (sometimes called bias binding) is a very long strip of fabric that is cut on the bias (or diagonally on the fabric, usually) to maximize stretch. This ensures that the bias tape will stretch nicely around the curved seams of your armhole.
什么是斜纹带？斜纹带（有时候叫斜滚条）是一种从布料倾斜裁剪的条状布料便于最大限度的拉伸，这样可以非常好地沿着袖笼弧度拉伸。
Bias tape or binding can either be purchased pre-made, or you can make your own. In this tutorial we will show you how to sew store-bought, double-fold bias tape into your armholes. This tutorial can also be used for neckholes, and shirt and dress hems too!
包边带或者包边条可以提前购买或者自己做。在这个教程里，我们将告诉你怎么缝合从商店购买的双侧包边条。这个教程也可以用于颈围，衬衫和裙子的边沿。
1. Start by pressing the center fold your double-fold bias tape flat. Press several feet of your bias tape, but keep it attached to cardboard it was packaged with. We will cut the bias tape to length later after it is sewed into the armhole to make sure we maximize the amount we use.
开始按中心折叠布条，两边翻折几英寸，让它可以包着边沿。我们将剪适当的长度在折叠好之后，保证最大限度满足需要。
2. Next press one edge of your double fold bias top flat.
下一步就是把一边的折边打开
3. Starting at the armpit seam of your armhole, position your bias tape so that 1” of the bias tape extends beyond the seam. The raw edges of your bias tape and fabric should be aligned with right sides together.
从袖笼腋下开始，用珠针固定，预留1英寸的距离，外折边应该和右侧的布边对齐
4. Continue to pin your bias tape around the circumference of your armhole pinning every 2” or so. Stretch the bias tape just slightly as you pin so that is eases around the armhole curves.
继续用珠针沿着袖笼在每个大约2英寸的地方固定我们的包边条，用斜纹布条轻轻的包着整个袖笼（不要拉伸）
5. Once fully pinned, trim your bias tape so that 1” of your bias tape end extends beyond the seam. You should have two bias tape tails about the same length.
一旦完全固定，修剪斜纹布条，另一个剪口也应该多留出1英寸，你应该有2个同样长度的布边
6. Align the bias tape tails so that the seam of the bias tape is centered over the armpit seam of the armhole. Place a pin perpendicular through both layers of bias tape (but not through the shirt or dress fabric) where the bias tape tails meet and sit flat against the fabric.
调整布边，保持斜纹布条接缝在袖笼底中心，用珠针固定布条（但不是和布料固定）
7. Begin sewing the bias tape to the shirt about 1” forward of the armpit/bias tape seam. Be sure to backstitch. Use a ⅜” seam allowance so that your stitch travels down the original crease you ironed out in step 2. Remove your pins as you sew.
在腋窝前1英寸的地方开始缝纫，一定要记得倒缝固定，沿着你在第二点烫的折痕，用⅜”宽缝份缝合，边缝边拿掉珠针
8. Sew around the entire armhole, taking it slow if this is your first time using bias tape. Stop about 1” from the armpit seam and backstitch. The pin holding the bias tape tails together should remain.
缝完整个袖笼，如果这是你第一次用斜纹布条请慢点。在距离腋窝1”的地方停止并倒缝。固定两边腋窝斜纹布条的珠针应该保留
9. Remove your shirt from under your presser foot and snip your threads. Pull the bias tape tails away from the fabric and sew a vertical stitch down the short length of your bias tape where the pin was located. Backstitch once up the entire length of the bias tape. Make sure you are not sewing any part of the shirt or dress fabric when doing this.
将衣服从压脚移开并剪断线，把斜纹布条结尾放水平缝合，确保你没有把布料也缝进去
10. Trim your bias tape tails to ¼”. Lay the bias tape flat against fabric and pin.
修剪斜纹布条缝份为 ¼”，把接口放在布料上，用珠针固定
11. Stitch the unsewn portion of the bias tape to the shirt fabric using the same seam allowance. Your armpit seam and bias tape seam should align.
用相同的缝份，继续缝合未缝完的部分。腋窝缝份和斜纹布条缝份应该要对齐
12. Press the bias tape away from the fabric, making sure your seam allowance is also pressed away from the inside of the shirt.
缝合之后，翻开斜纹布条，确保缝分也脱离衣服
Right side out view:
正面视图：
Wrong side out view:
背面视图：
13. On the right side of the bias tape, stitch ⅛” from seam. This is called understitching. Understitching allows for a nice crisp armhole that lays flat and hides all of the bias tape inside of the armhole. We recommend understitching every time you sew with bias tape, otherwise your bias tape may peek out from your armhole if you don’t press well. If you use a contrasting color of bias tape this can make for an unsightly armhole.
在斜纹布条的正面（压着缝份），压⅛”的缝份。这叫“贴低车缝法“。 “贴低车缝法“允许松的袖笼弧线躺平，掩盖斜纹布条。我们建议你以后使用斜纹布条用“贴低车缝法“ ，不然你没压好，你的袖笼很容易被窥视。如果你用一个对比色的布条会不太雅观
14. Now turn your garment inside out, press your bias tape into the inside of the garment and pin every 2”.
现在把包边布条翻到袖笼里面，沿着每2”的地方用珠针固定
15. Secure the bias tape into the garment by sewing on the bias tape with a ⅛” seam allowance from the inside edge starting at the armpit seam.
保证斜纹布条盖住布料，在袖笼腋窝开始，沿里缝车缝⅛”缝份
16. Turn your garment right side out and press your armholes. Put on that shirt and enjoy your crisp arm and neckholes finished with bias tape!
把布料翻回正面并烫好袖笼，穿上并尽情享受那用包边布条完成的袖笼和领圈吧~
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